Gift for a new baby – A sew along

Well, not really a sew along, unless you somehow have the pattern and want to dive in, but it is more like a follow along.  I thought I would start to document the process of the dresses and things I make so there would be a record of how I create these things and so you can comment (please do) to let me know if there might be a better way.  :-)

Since Scott works for the church, we have know quite a few people.   At any given time, any of them could be having a baby, getting married, etc.  So, there is usually a gift project of some kind in my queue at all times.  This time it is a gift for friends who are having a baby girl.  This is probably my favorite gift to make.  I know you can understand why.  Here is the dress I chose for this project:

Pattern #2392 and Fabric

I am making dress B complete with bonnet.

Cutting Layout

I won’t show you how I cut out the pieces, because I rarely follow the cutting diagram (see above), but I do always follow the grain-line arrows on the pattern pieces.  More often than not, I have found this one detail to be of extreme importance.

Before cutting out any of the pattern pieces, I separated out those that would be needing embroidery on them and set them aside.  All other pieces were then cut.  The pattern gives some really wonky instructions for doing the embroidery after the dress (and bonnet) have been partially assembled.  I don’t like this method, so here is how I do this step.

Taking the pattern pieces for the yoke, bonnet, and hem band, I laid them on the fabric and cut rectangles/squares that would accommodate the layout of each piece.  Then I cut and fuse the appropriate fusible webbing to one of each piece of fabric square/rectangle.  Taking that prepared fabric and using a washable marker, I trace the outline of the section of the pattern piece where the embroidery needs to be placed.  Then I take them square to my light table where I can transfer the markings for the embroidery to each piece.  Once this is done, the embroidery can be done on each piece and then the pattern piece can be cut out afterwords.  This allows for the embroidery to be done on a larger piece of fabric that won’t stretch out or become distorted.  It makes for much easier handling.  In addition, if your markings are off, you can then cut your pattern piece accordingly, rather than having to redo the embroidery, etc.

Embroidery details - marked and ready to go

Next post: Embroidery

How Appropriate – New for Mists of Panderia

Some weeks ago, I secured the achievement in World of Warcraft (WOW) of Loremaster.  At that time, I cast on a murloc named Madeline.  Today, the latest installment of the game was released and for some reason, today is the day that Madeline is finished.  It wasn’t planned that way, but how appropriate, don’t you think?  Introducing, Madeline…

I have finished some other fun things lately that I thought I would share.  In honor of football season finally arriving, I played with my embroidery machine and made this adorable onesie and a t-shirt for myself.

And finally, last but certainly not least, my first Halloween decoration of the season has been created.  I found this idea on Etsy and made it in a couple of hours.  You can put them anywhere to make it look like a large item has landed on top of the witch.

Ya, I Did That

I used this title for my post because I can just picture some of you saying, “did you really do that?” Well, let me tell you what I did. I saw this idea on Pinterest a while back and, of course, pinned it to my “good ideas” board. That is the board that you pin things to when you think they are great ideas, but you know in the back of your mind that you will never get around to doing them.  Then I started messing around with my fabric remnants.

This is only one drawer.  There are several.  I have always been frustrated by the digging through all the fabric stacks that happens when I am looking for one particular shade of blue, etc.  I have to dig down and sort through which takes time and messes up folded material until it becomes one giant unfolded mess.  Sound familiar?

The solution is cardboard.  There is a commercially available source for the plastic version of what follows, but they are very expensive, comparatively and so, I opted for the cardboard equivalent.  My source for the squares is Uline, where I got them for about $10 per hundred.  They stock loads of different sizes, so if you are going to do this, measure your cabinet or drawer first and get what will fit for you.

I measured my drawers and found that I could “file” my fabrics on two rows of 7″ cardboard squares.  So, I started by purchasing one stack of 100 cardboard squares.  They came nicely packaged, but then Scott got a hold of them…

That was about half of what I needed, so I ordered more and with a little bit of work I washed, pressed, folded and wound my remnants onto these mini-bolts and filed them away back in the drawer from whence they came.  Any fabric remnant 1/4 yard or over was wound on a bolt.  On the bolts that hold 1/2 yard I made a notation with a pen on the cardboard.  Everything over a yard went into a separate drawer with my larger pieces.  Now when I need a blue, I just pull open the drawer and look for what I want without having to dishevel everything.  Nice, huh?

          

Change of Plan

Ok, so I was so excited about the fabric for the backing of the Y2K quilt and when I went to pay for it and have it shipped, it was going to be $10+ a yard, plus shipping. I just couldn’t justify that high a price, so I kindly declined and started searching again for a suitable fabric. Finally found another from the same line that I actually like better and it was less expensive. It says hello in all different languages. Glad that is settled and paid for. Whew…

Making Progress – The Castle

I have worked on this cross stitch, The Castle by Teresa Wentzler, off and on for the past couple of years.  Like the “attic” sewing projects, I have started working on this in the evenings, trying to finish it up and get it on the wall.  Looking pretty good so far.  Can you guess what is surrounding the “castle?”

Backing the Y2K Quilt Top

Finding the perfect backing for this top was hard, but I heard back from a quilt shop in Georgia today and they have 5 yards of the fabric I have chosen.  I am so stoked about this!!  The fabric is called “What a World” and has lots of funky buildings from around the world on it.  This is going to make a great backing for an already interesting quilt.  Check out the fun.

Paper Foundation Piecing a Milennium Quilt or Y2K Quilt Block Swap

The last week and a half I have been busy with my next “out of the attic” project.  Today I finished up the blocks and now I am prepared to show you what I have been working so hard at.

Remember the Y2K computer bug?  I remember it well.  The reason I remember it is because, even back then, I was heavily involved in computers and quilting cyber groups.  At the turn of the century, I just love saying that, I was involved in a signature square block swap called the Millennium or Y2K swap.  The idea was to swap a 3″ signature square and about 20+ cotton fabric squares, enough to make a patchwork block, with quilters around the world.

I swapped 145 different signatures with quilters from all around the world.  I am missing 5 US states, but I do have treasures like blocks from Kazakhstan, Africa, England, and ItalyHere is a breakdown of the blocks I received and which places seem to have more cyber quilters involved in the swap at the time than others, if you are interested.

After 2000 came and went, 911 hit and the squares I had received were packed away and, you got it, put in the attic for some day.  It is so hard to believe that 1999 was 13 years ago.  Yikes!!!

The time has finally come to make this swap into a memory quilt that we can use and enjoy.  I thought I would show you the block I settled on for my squares and how I put them together using a technique called Paper Foundation Piecing.  This is not to be confused with English Paper Piecing, an entirely different technique.  So, if you want to have some fun and piece a few quilt blocks without worrying about perfect 1/4″ seams and bias or grain being straight, follow the tutorial below and enjoy.

To begin you have to print your block on paper.  I used a fairly simple block, with a finished block size of 6″.  The block I used came from a computer program and I printed the original over 13 years ago, so forgive me if I don’t have the name of it.  You can find many awesome block patterns on the internet and one site I really like is Paper Panache.  Print as many copies as you will need blocks.

Here is what the signature blocks look like in the center of the square.

 

For each block, I used the signature square and 8 fabric squares from the packet each quilter sent to me.  Sometimes it was hard to make a good combination and sometimes all the fabric squares in a packet had an obvious theme or colorway association.  I took the 8 fabric squares and cut them in half, discarding one half for use in another quilt later, and arranged the remaining triangles on my mat the way they were to be placed in the block.

 

Once I had them arranged the way I wanted, I took the paper pattern, turned it upside down, and, using fabric glue, adhered the signature square to the center of the block on the section #1 (see paper block above).  After this, I placed the first triangle (I always started with the one in the right corner section) right sides together with the signature square, having the edges somewhat even, see below.

 

Holding all the pieces in place, flip the block over and stitch on the line between section #’s 1 and 2.  Then, flip the block back over, lay back piece #2 and press.  Follow this procedure through piece 13.  When I work with tiny pieces, I like to keep this wooden “iron” by my machine (see below).  It keeps me from having to get up and go to the actual iron quite as much.  You just rub the tool on the seam and it presses, actually creases, the piece in place quite nicely.

     

Generally, when doing paper foundation piecing, it is important to follow the numbers in order.  Getting out of order usually causes huge problems.  On this block, however, you can do some things to speed up the process.   After pieces 1-5 have been sewn down, I opted to do pieces 6 and 8, then 7 and 9.  This way I could press the opposite pieces back at the same time, saving time.  I sewed down pieces 6 and 8, then trimmed away the excess, folded back the pieces and pressed.  Always remember to trim away all the excess before pressing the pieces back.  The great thing about this technique is that you can lay any shape piece down on the paper, sew on the line on the back, flip it over, fold back the paper out of the way along the seam line, and trim off the excess fabric.  No worries about keeping a straight 1/4″ seam or whether the bias is going this way or that.

 

I used white fabric scraps I had in my stash for the “background” pieces.  Below is what the block looks like after all the lines have been sewn.  Once all the pieces have been sewn down to the paper, flip the block upside down and trim off the excess, making sure to cut on the outer line, not the inner one.  The inner line around the border of the block is the sewing line you use to sew the blocks together, or the seam allowance.

   

Here is how I intend to put the blocks together.  I could use a sashing between the blocks, but I really like the way they look when put together without.

Foundation Paper Piecing is very fast and you can make some very complex block designs with this technique that you could not really do with traditional methods.  I hope this tutorial makes sense and I hope you stick around for what comes next.  Cheers!

Cleaning Out the Attic – Christmas in June

For the past few weekends in a row, we have been clearing out the attic and organizing things a bit.  We have been in this house for 6 years now and it was time.  When we moved into this house, we were moving from living in a motor home (converted Greyhound bus) for about 5 years, so many things we owned had been in storage during that time.  Those things went straight from storage to the attic when we moved in and have not seen the light of day until now.

Being in the quilting business for a majority of that time was difficult at times.  Quilting requires space and in the motor home I had very little.  So, I would start a project and then once it grew too large, or I started another one, it would be put in a container and dropped off at the storage place on our way through town.  This created many, many unfinished projects, not to mention the tools and supplies that I also put away for “someday.”

So, now “someday” has finally arrived and I have begun the process of going through all the projects and deciding which to complete first, which to abandon, and which to start that were put away as ideas only.  I can’t wait to share the adventure with you all.

First up is a Grandmother’s Flower Garden quilt that I started with scraps.  Since we didn’t have much room at the time and I prefer portable projects and hand sewing anyway, this top was completely hand pieced.  When I found it in the box it only needed the remaining border to be attached and it would be ready for quilting.  The border took two or three days to attach and here it is, completed and ready for quilting.  The photo is not the greatest, but you can see it is BIG :-)

I am no longer the purist I once was, and so even though this top was hand pieced, it will be machine quilted.  Funny how it happens as you get older the priorities change from doing things one way to doing them another.  My objective now is to see and use this quilt.  Wait till you see what is next…

New Look #0160 – The Preparation and Smocking

The panel that I pleated in the last post is now in the process of being smocked.  The pattern I chose for the smocking is a simple alternation between a half-step wave and a full step wave.  This pattern can be smocked without any diagrams or guides and is very basic.  I wanted to keep the color scheme down to beige and black, so the thread I am using is DMC 310 (black).

Once I have completed the smocking, I have to block it.  To find the center of the panel, I have to lay out the pattern piece for the yoke on the ironing board and do some measuring of sorts.  First, I use the line at the 9″ mark as my center, since my board is 18″ in length.  The instructions have the front yoke piece being sewn together down the center.  Since my panel does not have this center seam, I have to compensate by removing 5/8″ from the center.  I trimmed a piece of paper to 5/8″ and laid it on the pattern piece.  See how the 5/8″ line now runs down the point on the pattern called “center front?”  This is the line I place on the 9″ guideline as my center point of the yoke.

After finding the center, I can now see how large to block out my smocked panel.  It needs to be blocked 6.5″ on each side of the center line, or 13″ total across.  I block the smocking panel by stretching it to the proper length and steam “pressing” the pleats in place.  Once the piece is dry it will retain the shape and size blocked while you work with it in the pattern.  You can see from the photo below that the smocked panel is now blocked and ready for cutting.  To cut the smocked panel, I lay the pattern piece on top of the panel and line up the center of the piece.  Notice that I folded back the 5/8″ seam line on the pattern piece.  With a disappearing ink marker, I trace the pattern piece.  Then I sew on, or just inside, the drawn line with my machine.

Once the piece has been sewn, cut around the piece on the outside of the stitching line.

One problem I ran into with this top was that I did not purchase enough fabric for long sleeves.  Top A has sleeves that go halfway down between the elbow and the wrist.  This is a style that doesn’t suit me.  So, I had to extend the sleeve pattern piece to obtain the long look I desired.  However, when I went to cut out my “long” sleeves, I was short on fabric.  See how I compensated for this problem in my next post.  Until then…happy sewing!!

New Look #0160 – The Plan

I thought it might help me blog more if I attempted to chronicle the steps I go through when creating my fiber items, whether it is a garment, quilt, or even stuffed animal.  Some of the things I make are not gifts and so I can at least show the process for some of you who may be interested in the creative process as it relates to sewing in particular.

So, let’s get started.  This pattern is a top that I decided to make for myself.  I have selected top “A,” however, I intend to alter some of the pieces to suit my style.

I liked the front panel, as it could be smocked, pleated, gathered, or left plain.  Any garment that has an insert of this nature allows you to substitute the insert with something else.  Basically, I follow the rule to create the substitution insert fabric piece first, then cut out the pattern piece from the created “fabric.”  When doing this, it is important to find the pattern piece that is the actual size for the garment.  In other words, if I chose to smock the panel and then cut out my smocked fabric using a pattern piece that is supposed to have a pleat in it, it will not work.  It would be virtually impossible to pleat a smocked piece of fabric.  Here are the three yoke pattern pieces I had to choose from.

I chose #12.  Number 8 was much larger because it allowed for the piece to be pleated after it was cut out.  What I wanted was a piece that was already “actual” size.  There was little difference between #2 and #12, so I started to go with #2, as you can see from the photos.  However, it was important to figure out why #2 and #12 were just slightly different in size.  After looking through the sewing instructions for the top, I figured out that pattern piece #2 has a single pleat in the center and pattern piece #12 is the actual size of the yoke without any gathers or pleats.  I went with #12.  For this top, I wanted to smock the front yoke.  So, I measured the yoke piece (#12) from top to bottom, although all three yoke pieces were the same height.  The measurement was 12″ and I wanted the pleats to be vertical, so I cut a strip of fabric 45″ x 12″.

I threaded the pleater and then ran the strip through in preparation for smocking the panel.  The pleater can look intimidating, but it is actually a very simple device.

Here you can see the finished result of the pleating (again, I changed and went with pattern piece #12 after this photo was taken).  In the next post I will cover the smocking, blocking and cutting of the pattern pieces.